Some of you may remember that way back in the midsts of time we planned to go for a massive adventure around Scandinavia for our honeymoon. But then we went to Brussels and got a little freaked out by just how weak the pound was (although our financial advisor has been helping Jon come to terms with the whole credit crunch thing), plus Scandinavian countries aren't the cheapest. So we had a look at some other options: Highlands, France etc and in the end decided to go and see what Cornwall had to offer. It was a brilliant plan. Not only did we not go broke within two days, we also didn't knacker ourselves out with almost constant travelling. The day after the wedding we were struggling to keep our eyes open and the idea of a few days of train travel just made me want to throw up. (I didn't.)
So, where did we go and what did we do? We consulted Alistair Sawday's Special Places to Stay website to find, um, some special places to stay. We soon came up with a little tour itinery:
1 night at the Cheltenham Lawn Hotel to break the long journey
2 nights at Anchorage House near St Austell (quickly renamed St Awful) and walking distance from the Eden Project.
2 nights at the Boskerris Hotel in St Ives
2 nights at Ednovean Farm in Perranuthnoe near Penzance
5 nights self-catering at Badger's Hollow near Fowey

All the Cornish accommodation was amazing, each in it's own different way. Out of the hotels/B&Bs I think Ednovean was my favourite. It wasn't as out and out luxurious as the others but it had a lovely homely feel to it. We had our own little courtyard looking out over St Michael's Mount and there was a massive pile of house p0rn for me to read. Badger's Hollow was also pretty spectacular, to the extent that we couldn't work some of the high tech stuff in there. We were also able to have our own version of Springwatch, lying in bed watching rabbits, having a pheasant come and have a nosy through the patio doors. It was also great to have 5 days of not having to get up and leave the premises until the afternoon.
What did we do? Pottered about mainly. We went to the Eden Project and it totally lived up to the hype, even in the rain. We got there not long after it opened and I would definitely recommend doing that, especially if you are there in the school holidays as we were. The owner of Badger's Hollow told us that the most popular days are Tuesdays and Wednesdays, not the weekends as many people think. This is because most people take self-catering holidays in Cornwall and spend the weekend settling in and the weekdays Doing Things. Eden had definitely got stupidly busy as we left.

In St Ives we went to the Bernard Leach Pottery, wasn't really Jon's sort of thing but I liked it. I also went to the Tate and the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Garden while Jon sketched and went to a real ale festival. It felt like a kind of pilgrimage for me as I spent a lot of time in the Pier Arts Centre in Orkney as a child, where there is a permanent collection of works from the St Ives school. It was good to see the place for real. Apart from that St Ives was a very, very busy town that couldn't take the stupid amount of cars and people that were there. I couldn't even be bothered to look in many of the cute little shops.
The weather got really hot in St Ives and stayed that way for most of the rest of the trip. In Perranuthnoe we attempted to walk to St Michael's Mount but got as far as the Mount Haven Hotel in Marazion where we spent a stupid amount of money on water and decided to make our way back. We loved Perranuthnoe, a lovely wee village with a beautiful beach and the famous Victoria Inn, where we had two fantastic meals.
Then on to Fowey, where we just kicked back and relaxed. We walked down to Fowey every day for a big lunch and sometimes afternoon tea and to buy a few bits for dinner. Yum. We did have plans to try and see the Lost Gardens of Heligan but by public transport it was a bit complicated from there. We plan to return to Cornwall some time and will make sure we stay somewhere on the Heligan bus route! Fowey was a pretty little town, crowded but not on the scale of St Ives.
And where did we eat? Lots of good places. First was Austells, an unassuming place on a shopping parade well away from the centre of St Awful. But it was great! It was Pie Club so dinner was more bargainous than it would have been otherwise. In St Ives we dined at our hotel in the evenings (residents only) but on the last day had lunch at the wonderful Porthminster Beach Cafe. Not only did it have a tasty vegetarian option on the main menu, there was a whole other separate vegetarian menu as well. Fantastic!
Perranuthnoe saw us bag the last table in the Victoria Inn, highly highly recommended. We were also enchanted by The Cabin, a non-descript looking shed by the beach that sold delicious home baking and things like homemade hoummous and cordials. Between leaving there and arriving in Fowey we spent a couple of hours in Penzance where we lunched at Archie Browns vegetarian cafe. It was too hot to truly appreciate all the tempting hot dishes but my jacket potato and salads were gorgeous. Our food highlight in Fowey was the Dwelling House, a B&B/tearoom on the main street. You can't miss it, it has knitted cakes in the window. The kitchen was open with cakes coming fresh from the Aga. We also ate at Food for Thought and Pinky Murphy's, the latter was more interesting and eccentric.
All the photos I took are here. Thanks to everyone who suggested places to eat and things to do, I seemed to get loads out of the Atheist and Agnostic Crafters Group on Ravelry, a lot of Cornwall fans on there! We didn't do Scandinavia, but it definitely remains on our list of must-do adventures.
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